Not all lipsticks are created equal
The
formulas for lipsticks across the market generally have the same, well-known
ratios of colour, oils, fats, waxes, perfumes.
Different ingredients and ratios
are used to produce matt, gloss, metallic, pearlescent, and other
textural effects. Many bigger companies also charge a fortune for these
small tubes of chemicals and waxes, and have patented perfume formulas
for the brand, which is why we equate them to smelling “expensive”. The
marketing involved is, of course, generally what you are paying for. These
companies have master-minded human psychology, and are laughing all the way to the
bank! But there is no doubt that we feel that little bit more glamorous and
special when we don a Dior lipstick, as opposed to brand x from the chemist.
And money probably has been spent on a better-honed formula than brand x, but
essentially lipstick formulas are the same.
And what is
the formula? Ratios aside, most lipsticks are primarily a mixture of oil, wax,
pigmentation, flavouring, and perfume. Sounds quite harmless, but let’s go
briefly through each ingredient and break it down.
Oils/fats/waxes:
Those most
commonly used are olive, castor, lecithin oils, and hydrogenated vegetable
oils. Beeswax, carnuba and candilia wax are also used, as is lanolin from
sheep’s wool, and cocoa butter. Fair enough. You could probably eat some of
those ingredients and go on your merry way. But also included are mineral oils,
butyl stearate, polyethalene glycol (PEG), petrolatum, and paraffin. The latter
ingredients are toxic, and although used in small amounts, are what we eat when
we ingest an average of 2 to 4 kilograms of lipstick in our lifetime. These
toxic ingredients are not processed by our systems. They are stored in our fat
cells and can linger in our bodies for life. PEG, a plasticizing agent, can also contain formaldehyde
and is being reviewed for its safety. About 8% of people are sensitized to PEG
and ingestion can cause severe abdominal pain and bleeding., and externally can
cause eczema. Colours: The
majority of synthetic colours in lipsticks are derived from coal tar. This has
been a contentious issue for the FDA because extensive research has shown,
conclusively, that almost all synthetic colours have shown to cause cancer
(when injected into mice). Additionally, many people are allergic to coal tar.
So they are potential carcinogens and sensitizers. Each decade, after thorough
review, we are seeing more and more of these synthetic colours (called colour
lakes) being banned from cosmetic usage. Pearlescent
sheen usually employs bismouth compounds, most of which have a low toxicity
when ingested, but may cause skin reactions when applied topically. Cheilitis
(dermatitis of the lips) is extremely common. The use of colours derived from
coal tar result to a gradual dryness, chapping, and peeling of the lips,
sometimes accompanied by blistering. The cause 95% of the time has been found
to be the indelible dyes in lipstick.
Fragrance:
Synthetic
fragrances are the
most frequent allegens and, according to the FDA, may result in
headaches,
dizziness, rashes, hyperpigmentation, dermatitis, coughing, vomiting,
nausea.
They are omitted from hypoallergenic formulations because of this.
Rarely will commercial brands use pure essential oil fragrances as they
are costlier. The main
cause for concern regarding lipsticks are the gradual ingestion of the
ingredients. Nowadays, with a more conscientious consumer, a new breed of
lipsticks are being introduced onto the market that offer, not only the range
of colours and sophisticated formulations, but are non-toxic, either externally
or internally.
Natural
waxes, oils, and fats are used, as are natural pigmentation from minerals (mica
offering a pearlescent sheen), or natural dyes, such as vegetable compounds
like beetroot, saffron, caramel, grape, or animal sources like cochineal. Essential
oils are employed as a perfume for most natural lipsticks. Some essential oils
that may be considered irritants are usually avoided, opting for rose oil,
vanilla and jasmine essential oils. The concentrations of these are so minute
that the risk of skin irritation is extremely low. Above all,
the ingredients in natural lipsticks are made for vegetable, plant and animal
compounds that are easily digested by our bodies, and if ingested pass through
as any organic food products would. These ingredients are non-toxic and, unlike
their synthetic counterparts, do no build up in your body. Information taken from "A consumer's dictionary of cosmetic ingredients" by Ruth Winter, M.S. |
